First day in Zambia

Saturday, June 5, 2010

We arrived in Malawi yesterday, drove to the Bishops house in Chipata, Zambia, took a much-needed shower and had dinner before collapsing into our beds. After two full days of travel, we really needed a good night’s sleep. We woke up this morning and had breakfast at the bishop’s house before our orientation to the healthcare system in Zambia.

As we finished breakfast, we were told that a tribe of dancers was arriving to dance for us. We headed outside and sat on the steps of the Bishop’s house as the dancers walked up the driveway. The tribal dancers were a group of about 30 men, women and young boys. The women were dressed normally, in chitengas and shirts, while the men were wearing skirts made of animal furs and carrying tall, thin sticks and wearing headbands and bracelets made out of animal skins. The women stood in a semi-circle around the back, singing and clapping. The men and children spread out in front of us to dance. Their dance involved a lot of stomping, that added to the ‘music’ coming from the women. The chief stood in the center, dancing and directing the other dancers, holding a decorative shield and sword.

One of the men who works for the Bishop explained to us that the dance was a traditional dance of celebration, reserved for when the men of the tribe had had an exceptionally successful hunting trip or had won a battle. The animal skins they wore were those of the animals they had killed. Today, the men no longer hunt or go to battle, so the dance is reserved for times of celebration, such as our arrival.

The dance went on for 30-45 minutes. I was a dancer when I was younger and have taken classes in African Ballet, but nothing I have ever seen compared to what I saw today. As I watched the dance, I saw the passion in the dancers, even in the young boys. It almost seemed as if this dance was something that they were born with, not something they learned. It was not merely for our entertainment, it was an uninhibited expression of their excitement, joy, pride and gratitude. I have seen a lot of dancers from the western world, but never have I seen such a raw expression of emotion. It was our first day and we didn’t understand any of their language, but there was no ambiguity within their message. Talk about cultural immersion.